The resulting edge is somewhat dependent on the particular blade. The result is typically “very sharp” with a small secondary bevel and a bit of an “apple seed” profile. Our sharpening service will provide a good serviceable edge on the blade. Consider this as a general guideline only. The Edge ratings in particular are somewhat subjective and each blade can vary. This info is provided to give you a good idea of the product being presented, the one you receive may vary from the specific one we took measurements of. Please note: Due to the hand made nature of these items, all specs should be considered as approximates. However for reasons we won’t get into here, this is not the case. A common misconception is that swords should all be “razor sharp”. Moderately Sharp is close, but may need to be touched up to get the best performance. Possible values could be “Rebated” meaning the edge is intentionally thickened for safety, “Blunt” meaning the edge is fairly thick with little to no taper, ‘Unsharpened” which would taper to the edge but stop short of having any real cutting ability, “Slightly Sharp, Moderately Sharp, Sharp, or Very Sharp” Sharp or Very Sharp are considered good for cutting swords. The “Edge” spec will tell you about how sharp a blade is. A very high POB will result in a sword that feels heavier than it actually is and is difficult to wield. In general, a low POB results in good point control well suited to a thrusting blade, while a higher POB adds impact to a cleaving blade. A POB of 3”- 5” usually results in a well balanced sword, but does depend on the type of sword. In practice however, there are many reasons why you may not want this for a particular sword. In theory a sword with a POB of 0” is perfectly balanced. A number of 0” would balance exactly at the guard, while a negative number will have a POB in the hilt itself. It refers to the point on the blade where the sword achieves a perfect balance. stands for Point Of Balance, this is measured in inches from the hilt down the blade. Even just cutting in rain or wearing on the walk to your cutting location, the design choices put into this sword make it my go-to cutter. Overall a good, tough sword that really had some thought put into making it practical to use or carry around in a modern setting. Although to be fair, it’s not like it will ever get used in a real fighting situation, and it does greatly add to the ease of wearing the sword as it doesn’t get in the way as much. I also find the sword’s tsuba unsatisfactory, and it feels too small to be practical. While the damage is easily worked out, it’s safe to say a scabbard shouldn’t be doing this to its blade. Something with the scabbard seems to damage the Kissaki of the blade and has chipped or rolled a good seven or so small points on the tip of the sword. However, despite all the benefits, this sword is the first I’ve ever owned to roll its own edge while sheathing it. These features make the sword a great no-nonsense cutter and being loosely based off the Raptor series of sword, it’s sharp, and holds an edge well. A fiberglass sheath that resists water damage, monotempred 5160 HC steel, and paracord Saego stand-in that allows for mounting on a sling. The Tactical series from Hanwei offers some very good choices for hard-use beater swords, and they’re quite nice to look at as well.Ĭreated with the idea of modern use in mind, the tactical katana is more practical than hanwei’s actual practical series of katana. Absolutely amazed that I managed to get one of these, as they had been out of stock long before I got into swords.
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